Tag Archives: travel

Those that Swim and Those that Don’t

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By the time we’re up and out and walking to the harbour in Agios Nikolaus the breeze has stiffened, raking the sea into choppy waves. It’s cooler. Knowing we’d be blown about on a ferry, we’ve packed fleece tops into our rucksacks but we’re still in shorts. We descend to the quayside and get our tickets at the booth, then follow others up and on to the boat, choosing seats on the middle deck, which has a roof but is open at the sides.

The boat is full, though not bursting at the seams and gets underway at the stated time of 12.30pm, reversing out of its berth and setting off out of harbour.

Once out of the shelter of the harbour it’s breezier still. We get intermittent snatches of commentary from a guide who is clearly as ‘end of season’ as everything else. He points out a few things along the coast- the ‘most expensive’ hotel and one or two of the islands. The woman opposite us hands out snacks to her two children and drapes them in towels to warm them up.

After about half an hour the boat pulls into a bay and shudders to a halt some metres from the shore. This is a stop for people to dive off the boat for a swim. Regular readers will know that swimming is not a favourite activity of mine and I’m only tempted into water if the outside temperature is so hot as to necessitate cooling. I’m even less inclined nowadays, since modifications to my physical self have occurred [but that is another story]. And by now, it’s cool- far too cool for cold water!

We descend to the lower deck, where a handful of braver souls are shedding their outer wear and plunging off the back [sorry- stern] of the boat with abandon, then swimming off into the lively waves. On this lower deck we can get coffee, which we do. Outside on the sea I watch as a flat cap bobs jauntily past, its confused owner patting his head to note its absence.

Coffee done and the swimmers return, clambering up the gangplank and dripping puddles on the deck. We return to our upstairs seats and the ferry resumes its travel towards Spinalonga and I succumb to an extra layer as by now the wind is cold, blowing across the decks and causing the boat to rock and roll. I’m grateful at this point for not suffering from sea-sickness- a condition I’ve only experienced twice [in spite of having made countless boat and ferry trips].

But I do want to get some photos, which means getting around to different points on the deck and this is tricky, involving hanging on to various fixed items with one hand while gripping my camera in the other. Yikes!

A little further and the tiny outcrop of rock that is Spinalonga Island comes into view. We almost circle it and then we’re pulling in towards a minute beach and the crew lower the gangplank- which rocks and slides, making disembarking a dodgy feat- although we manage better than some! We step off on to the shingle to wait for our alleged guide- now where can they be?

Novels by Jane Deans [Grace]: The Year of Familiar Strangers and The Conways at Earthsend. Visit my website: janedeans.com

Shore, Harbour and Lake

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Something we’re finding tricky here in Crete is finding a way to get around and see the sights without recourse to car hire or a tour. The long, long transfer from the airport has deterred us from booking a coach tour; we’re not willing to waste half a day visiting neighbouring hotels to pick others up. We’ve not seen one single, local bus on the roads around us, so it seems an island bus service may not exist…unless you, reader, know different? So we may need to accept that on this occasion we won’t get to see the Knossos etc.

One trip I would like to make, though, is to Spinalonga. Victoria Hislop wrote about this tiny outcrop in her 2007 novel, The Island.https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Island_(Hislop_novel). Spinalonga was the last leper colony in Europe and has a fascinating history. We don’t, however want to go on a pre-arranged trip.

But we have yet to see all that Agios Nikolaus has to offer, so we set off once more, this time to walk around the shore to the other side of town, past the tiny bay where we’d dined on a shared sea bream and along by the curving sea wall, There are few pockets of beach here, so hotels and guest houses have used their ingenuity to create beach-style areas from jetties and man-made platforms. Out to sea there are tiny islands which look uninhabited or have miniature churches crowning them.

Since the heatwave we experienced in the first days subsided, a breeze has set up, making it comfortable and perfect walking weather.

As we near the town harbour there’s a promontary bearing a marble and bronze statue of a bull and a maiden. This is the statue of Europa, overlooking the sea. But continuing round, the buildings thin out and the views become less interesting. There are a few beach bars here but we aren’t tempted by any of them and turn back towards town, deciding to turn in towards the harbour, where one leisure, tourist boat is moored and another is approaching. The side bears a large sign: Spinalonga! And I realise that all we need to do is walk here, to town and climb on a boat. Hooray!

There’s a small ticket booth on the quayside but we’re assured we won’t need to reserve tickets so late in the season. Result!

Across a small bridge there’s a miniature lagoon. Locally known as the ‘Lake’, it is surrounded by steep cliff sides and fringed with bars, the sun lingering on the outside tables long enough for an early evening beer to be enjoyed. Interesting excavations into the steep sides hint at ancient remains but again- no information. Further round there’s a minute, white chapel where tourists are queuing up to take selfies. The lake cannot be totally circumnavigated to we backtrack to the bars to reward ourselves for walking.

Across the opposite side there are more interesting resaurants, so it’s an area we’ll return to for a meal. In the meantime we have our trip to Spinalonga to look forward to.

Novels by Jane Deans [Grace]: The Year of Familiar Strangers and The Conways at Earthsend. Visit my website: janedeans.com

Agios

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After a few days, the heat wave relents and we’re able to strike out from our lofty location outside Agios Nikolaos to explore the town. As on so many Greek islands the place is inhabited by hundreds of feral cats; but unlike many I’ve seen in the past that have been in poor health or exhibited nasty injuries, these appear to be fit and well and thoroughly enjoying their lives- dozing on car bonnets, brawling and yawling in the light of street lamps and winding themselves around the chairs of evening diners. They are cared for by the residents, who put out food and water, but they don’t stoop to affection, even after titbits from the table.

So far we’ve only made it to the edges of town so we wander away from the sea to the centre, past a beautiful church with a stunning interior, then we turn into a steep street and stumble upon an excavation- Roman perhaps? There seems to be evidence of ancient baths and remnants of buildings that look Roman. There is, however no information whatsoever to describe or inform.

In his previous life, Husband holidayed in Agios Nikolaos, so it’s with growing excitement that he rediscovers the tiny bay lined with bars near the apartment he’d shared with a friend, although he pinpoint the exact spot. Fair enough- it must be 30 years ago that he was here. We discover some fancy restaurants overlooking the water and decide to return for a meal, also discovering a coast path winding back to the marina and avoiding the busy shopping streets full of gift shops.

Later we return to the favoured restaurant and choose to share a sea bream we’ve selected from the glum array of fresh fish in a chilled case. It’s enormous- more than enough for two- and delicious, and attracts the usual gathering of winsome cats, who are rewarded with some fish skin and a few bones.

On our return to the hotel we stop off at the bar. Each night, ‘entertainment’ is provided. This is in the form of a keyboard player, or a guitarist or a DJ and confined to the outside terrace, thankfully. We begin to find the antics of the bar manager entertainment in itself, as he appears to have warmed to Husband, bringing us an extra drink and, to our hilarity, calling Husband ‘Mr Carl Douglas’, which brings tear to my eyes. We realize he must mean Michael Douglas, because Carl Douglas was the black singer who brought ‘Kung Fu Fighting’ to the charts in 1974. The bar manager works with a young woman and they seem to always be there. He tells us he is soon to have a week off and he’ll be returning to his home to take over the care of his disabled brother.

The bar area is vast and rarely looks full, although there are still enough guests to justify entertainment, some choosing to jig about to the warblings of a singer belting out covers, others playing cards.

Novels by Jane Deans [Grace]: The Year of Familiar Strangers and The Conways at Earthsend. Visit my website: janedeans.com

Settling

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We arrive to the Miramare hotel, just outside Agios Nikolaos, Crete at 12.30am, after a two and a half hour bus transfer from the airport at Heraklion. By this time we’re tired, hungry [having not eaten since midday] and desperate to pee.

We trundle into the lobby, where the hotel’s night manager sorts us out a room, points out the WC and tells us we can get a meal in the hotel restaurant. Phew! [but no thanks to TUI].

We’re taken out of the entrance and down four flights of stairs to our room, which is large but somehow undesirable. While it has a restricted sea view, its balcony is next to the road and it feels cavernous and empty. But we’re tired enough to sleep. We’ll sort it out in the morning.

In the event, after breakfast, we explain and are quickly taken via golf cart to an available room at the top of the hill with a stunning view, smaller than the first room but much more cosy. We’re happy. Two ticks to the hotel management-

We’ve arrived to Crete during a heat wave, a stark contrast to home temperatures, so it seems best to take things easy until we’ve acclimatised. Breakfast is the usual hotel, buffet-style bun fight but there’s a huge array of choices. Then we opt for one of the three [three!] pools, which is opposite our room and take our books, choosing shade.

The hotel occupies all of a substantial hill, a short walk from the town of Agios Nikolaos. Walking to and from the town is not for the infirm, since there is a steep climb up to the hotel entrance and now that we’re established in a hilltop room, steps from the lift, so it will give us enough exercise between lounging around.

In the early evening we stroll down past a couple of bars and restaurants, past the cemetary and a beach ‘club’, [which remains a mystery] and to a stretch of the bay where there is a tiny, town beach backed by a marina. Here there are myriad bars and tavernas and it feels luxurious to sit outside on a warm October evening and have a beer while watching tiny children playing in and out of the water. Outside one bar there are a number of tables where Backgammon is being played, a serious matter- judging by the intense concentration of the players.

Then we must choose from the many tavernas lining the streets, although we noticed one on the way here, not on the sea front, which boasts an interesting menu and a quirky decor. It’s narrow but stretches back some way. It also has a few people lined up waiting for a table- always a good sign.

A flamboyant waiter guides us to a table, exhibiting extravagant gestures and handshakes. Little snacks and dips are brought for us while we peruse the menu. The meals are delicious- giant prawns and pasta for me and a risotto for Husband, all too much as I fail to eat it all- but eating out here is not at all expensive. We’re brought complimentary dessert in the form of a miniature jar containing cheesecake and a shot glass of liqueur so strong it makes my eyes water to sniff it. I oblige by eating the cheesecake but make my excuses on the Raki…

Novels by Jane Deans [Grace]: The Year of Familiar Strangers and The Conways at Earthsend. Visit my website: janedeans.com

Triumphant Optimism

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Following the short, local jaunt to Bransgore Beer Festival using the van, it feels like time to go off and get some autumn sunshine. Theres a window of opportunity between engagements at home so we book ourselves a package…to Crete.

Many, many years ago [in the 1970s] I stopped off at Crete on a ferry bound for Alexandria [Egypt] but had no opportunity to see anything. Since then I have visited a fair number of Greek islands as well as the mainland and never had an unpleasant time. The forecast for Crete this October is for temperatures in the mid twenties- which will do nicely, given that we’ve been subjected to relentless rain and gloomy skies here in the UK.

The package deal uses yet another budget airline, which feels rash after the last experience, although there isn’t much choice.

We do our routine for Gatwick Airport- train to airport the day before the flight, hotel at the terminal and plenty of time to do all the flight things.

I’m never unhappy at the idea of an evening lolling around in the airport hotel. Next morning there’s more lolling before we meander across to the terminal. All the pre flight chores have become so automated that you wonder if we must fly the plane ourselves, too. Self check-in, self bag drop, self this, self that. Having dealt with all of that, we do security and navigate along the Ikea-style, zig-zag of what airports fondly call ‘duty-free’, which has expanded since last time.

I’m momentarily irritated to be inundated with unsolicited spray from various perfume bottles, which I consider an imposition!

We need to eat before boarding, since we won’t be offered so much as a mini-bag of pretzels on the 4-hour flight, so we get brunch, which takes some time. In the event there’s no time for anything else as we’re called to the gate, where I just have time to heave on my flight socks before we line up and file down the tunnel to the plane, where by some fluke of luck [again] we wangle ourselves seats together.

Then we wait…and wait…and taxi a bit…and wait. The internet has failed at the airport, meaning all planes are waiting- 45 minutes for us…

It’s dark and 9.30pm when we arrive to Heraklion. We stumble through passport control and collect our luggage, then out into the concourse where we’re directed to the waiting coaches and told a number which doesn’t appear to adorn any of the waiting buses. We trudge back and are guided to a bus with a dark, indistinct number and clamber on. Once everyone is on the bus, the driver decides he must go and use the facilities…

We get underway. The bus starts on the dual carriageway then turns off down a narrow, winding lane barely wide enough. It shunts and turns, drops two people off, turns back. This becomes a pattern- navigating narrow tracks that would hardly accommodate a car, reversing, swaying round impossible corners. The time ticks on. At about 11.30pm we begin to realise we won’t eat tonight and it feels a long time since brunch at Gatwick…

Novels by Jane Deans [Grace]: The Year of Familiar Strangers and The Conways at Earthsend. Visit my website: janedeans.com

Beer, Burgers and Beats

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It turns out we’re not finished with festivals yet. I’ve spotted an ad for a local beer festival in a neighbouring village which looks to be hosting a lot of music as well as food. While it’s not far from us [just a few miles up the road], there’s no chance of getting home after an evening of beer without a loooong wait for a taxi [which we’ve done before[, And it so happens that there’s a site we can stay in very close to the host pub- The Three Tuns. It feels good to be using the van again, even if we’re sliding into autumn.

But by the time we’ve sprung into action, booking tickets and looking into staying, the site is very much booked up- due to the beer festival of course! We’re only staying three nights, however, and can manage without hook-up, so when we’re offered a pitch on the tent field we agree.

Bransgore is a large village on the fringe of the New Forest National Park and has seen an explosion of housing in recent years. It is popular, with a useful selection of shops, a couple of pubs, a primary school, cafes, a church and a garden centre.

We’re in luck, discovering when we arrive that a hook-up pitch has become available. W park up next to a caravan where a lone man is setting up. He’s from Manchester, waiting for his brother to join him. There’s also a group of young men pitching tents, a rugby club, Reading, as the text on their gazebo declares, so perhaps we’re the most local festival goers on the site. While it’s quite sunny, the temperature isn’t warm as it might be for early autumn and I’m glad of the van’s cosy heating system as well as impressed by the tent campers’ hardiness [though they are from a rugby club].

As twilight desends we make our way down to the pub. where the festival is well underway. There is a burger stall, which we intemd to patronise later, a large beer tent, its walls lined with beer barrels on one side and cider kegs on the other, a tent with a few tables and chairs and an enormous marquee from which music is already emanating. Having collected our tokens, we head to the beer tent to seek a menu for the beers and undertake the difficult job of choosing one. Husband is the beer connossieur of the two of us and I am the uncultured one, as I dislike anything too sharp and hoppy and prefer the richer, browner beers- or even a porter in the colder months. Neither of us, however goes for the mad, high-alcohol-content ones.

We’ve brought fold-up camp chairs with us and once we’re sorted with a drink we settle down to have a look at whatever band is playing. This is a local festival with local musicians. Mostly they’re playing covers, which is ok by me- except that I have an aversion to one or two songs that are variously overdone/not much good to start with. I object to ‘Brown-eyed Girl’ by Van Morrrison on the grounds that it has been done to death. I’m tired to death of Oasis’ ‘Don’t Look Back in Anger’ and I have always loathed ‘Your Sex is on Fire’ due to the idiocy of its lyrics. See what I mean?

We’re coping with burgers tonight- not generally a choice I make but a pragmatic decision springing from no desire to cook anything combined with not wishing to go backwards and forwards from site to festival. and there’s always tomorrow night…

Novels by Jane Deans [Grace]: The Year of Familiar Strangers and The Conways at Earthsend. Visit my website: janedeans.com

An Otter but no Beavers

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Having setttled in at the oddly named ‘Pooh Cottage’ site, we opt for a wander into Budleigh Salterton, along the lanes into the back of this tiny Devon town, then down to the front. Whlle Budleigh Salterton is a typical, British, seaside town it is pleasingly undeveloped, boasting no high rise hotels, lurid arcades or Bingo parlours. The beach is pebbly and fringed with a few beach huts, plenty of fishermen’s paraphernalia and a promenade. A cursory stroll on the prom reveals a little gem- a small, rustic seafood restaurant with all kinds of delicious-looking items. Rockfish Cafe. Over a coffee we peruse the menu and resolve to return in a day or two.

On our way back to site we stop in Knowle village and get a beer at the lone pub, The Dog and Donkey, which also offers a tolerable menu, meaning there won’t be a whole load of cooking going on before we get home!

The weather is still good and we’re up for a good walk next day, striking out and up a long hill by the golf course. Once we’ve gained the top there are great views down to Budleigh beach one side and Exmouth the other, then a narrow, downhill track leads to the town. The streets behind the beach offer a few interesting, independent shops as well as a Co-op and the usual crop of charity shops. One tiny shop has attracted a sizeable queue for ice cream so it seems churlish not to join it. The quirky store’s walls are lined with jars of interesting herbs, nuts, spices and pulses as well as old favourites such as peanut brittle, so there’s plenty to look at while we wait.

Later we’re back for the seafood at Rockfish Cafe and it’s a chance to have lobster- something which doesn’t present itself too often. It’s delicious- served with very little besides mayonnaise, crusty bread and some lettuce. Perfect!

On our last day we opt to start off at the estuary of the River Otter and follow the river upstream- a scenic route beside water meadows. Of course, seabirds are everywhere here, searching the mud for tasty treats. There are beavers here in the river, though we’re unlikely to spot any unless we’re up at dawn- which is never going to happen for us!

The footpath comes to a halt at a bridge and a water mill where there is a cafe, gift shop and farm shop selling all kinds of items. It’s pleasant, tables placed outside by the millstream. It’s also very busy, thronged with tourists. After restorative coffee and cake we retrace our steps back along the river to the estuary and back to Pooh Cottage.

Later, at the Dog and Donkey, we eat a mediocre meal and sit back as an ’80s Night’ begins to get underway in the huge room at the rear of the pub. A trickle of people files past us, attired in appropriate 80s garb, which is enough entertainment as we finish beers and creak our way up the hill to the site and our van. Farewell Devon for now…

Novels by Jane Deans [Grace]: The Year of Familiar Strangers and The Conways at Earthsend. Visit my website: janedeans.com

Not Winnie…

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For our third day at Bagwell Farm we’re off on another walk- in the other direction this time but again, from the site, starting off up a hill and eventually coming across Fleet and old Fleet church, tiny and charming with its own miniature churchyard. You can go inside, too, which I do and there are just a few pews, an altar and everything a church needs. A left behind cardigan slung over the back of a pew signals that the church is used. We have a sit on a stone bench outside. There are glimpses of the water through the trees.

Then we’re following the lagoon behind Chesil Beach again, coming round the coast path to an enormous, white hotel, Moonfleet Manor, sitting in an imposing position overlooking the sea. It’s a warm day and we’ve been walking so when we spot an ice-cream sign it feels rude not to investigate. But we have to work for it! The obvious entry point to the hotel is embellished with ‘no entry to hotel’. We backtrack. We must enter through the garden, which is behind a wall. It’s very lovely, with raised beds full of all kinds of interesting plants, but there’s no sign of an ice-cream. [It occurs to me that recent posts must convey the impression that I am on a constant search for ice-cream, although on this occasion it’s Husband’s idea…].

Getting through the garden is not the last part of the quest- we need to circlumnavigate the entire hotel building until we find the cafe at the top of a great lawn and there, finally, is the ice cream machine. We get our reward, a brief interlude before the hike back to site. It’s the last day before we move so we give The Red Barn- the site’s own pub/cafe, a try. The food on offer is mostly pub grub, ie burgers, battered fish, lasagne- all with chips, but it’s good enough for a cook-free evening after a long walk.

Next we’re off into Devon, our next-door county and to a site called Pooh Cottage in the village of Knowle, near Budleigh Salterton. On arrival to the site, off Bear Lane, we trundle up a slope and are met by loops of caravans and motorhomes immaculately parked on hard standing pitches round manicured ovals of lawn. Reception is in a kind of log cabin. it’s quiet- eerily so.

We’re led off to our pitch by the owner- who I’m tempted to call Mr Pooh but I manage to suppress the urge, although we’re allotted a pitch in a field at the back where there’s just one other unit. It feels a little second class here in a featureless field with tall hedges but no matter. The village of Knowle is down the lane, across a busy road and down again. There isn’t much to Knowle but it does have a pub, at least! And it is walking distance to Budleigh Salterton, where we’ve been before but will revisit.

Novels by Jane Deans [Grace]: The Year of Familiar Strangers and The Conways at Earthsend. Visit my website: janedeans.com

Bus Trials [again!]

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So it transpires that our neighbour at Bagwell Farm camp site, Chickerell, Raymond, is something of an institution, as having sorted out the electricity problem, he’s off hobnobbing with all and sundry. Clearly, he spends a great deal of time here and is to be spotted most of the day, sitting outside his caravan awning chatting to other ‘regulars’. It’s that kind of site. In contrast, the single man in the caravan the other side of us is reclusive to the point of hermit-dom, appearing rarely and furtively [and clad only in scruffy shorts].

But we’re here to enjoy the walks and the coast path and having undertaken quite a hefty hike yesterday, we’ll take a day off and get a bus to Abbotsbury, which is famous for its swannery, of course, [https://abbotsburyswannery.co.uk/ ] but has other, lesser known bits of interest.

It should be easy. We’ve used the bus service on many, many occasions back and forth along this part of the coast. And the bus stop is down on the main road, near the unpatronised Victoria pub we’ve already investigated. Husband, who is the maestro of all things timetable, has looked at bus times and selected one for us. We stroll down the field and to the stop by the silent pub and the busy road. A man rides out behind us on a mower and begins to cut the grass around the pub. We wait…and wait. An inspection of the bus stop timetable affords no help- since not only do the times bear no relation to Husband’s online timetable, they bear no relation to reality-

I begin to tire of standing still. We begin to discuss how long we should wait. I sit down. It’s a warm afternoon. After about 40 minutes [far too long!] we opt for returning to site. We get as far as the gate to the field and…yes…there is a bus. It pulls up at the stop. We make our attempt to run towards it in full view of the driver…we get to within 50 yards of the bus…and…it pulls away.

Having returned to the van and regrouped, not to be beaten, we try again, even though the afternoon is slipping by and we’ll need to return at some stage.

Finally we get on to a [very busy] bus and get to Abbotsbury, where we alight and attempt to discern the timetable for the bus back to Chickerell. I need hardly say that it is all nonsensical. We wander the lovely, picture-perfect village. We don’t have long, but we stumble upon Abbotsbury Abbey, which is delightful, with a ‘cut-your-own’ flower shop, a beautiful mill pond, the semi-ruined abbey and a cafe which is just about to close but will sell us drinks and cake to take away [hooray!]. We settle at a bench in the sunshine by the pond.

It’s time to meander back to the dastardly bus stop, opposite the pub. The bus stop bench is occupied so I lower myself on to a log by a gate from which chickens are coming and going- a more interesting diversion than the mower. At least this time there are fellow hopeful passengers. Husband bemoans the fact that we don’t have time for the pub, which appears a great deal more inviting than the Victoria.

At last, however, a bus comes. Perhaps there is some mysterious deity after all…

Coast and Country

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Those who’ve followed Anecdotage for ever will have detected a change in our trips lately. We’ve not undertaken any lengthy, meandering van Odysee, rather dashed out for short stays, some local, others made by air. This is due to a deluge of NHS appointments [National Health Service for overseas visitors to this blog]. This means having to sandwich travel trips between doctor interventions and checks. Ho hum…

After Valleyfest we dash home, then there’s time to clean the van and do laundry before we’re off again- this time to west Dorset, to a massive site, Bagwell Farm near Chickerell [which is near to Weymouth]. And it has direct access on to the lovely coast path, right where Chesil Beach passes by on its way to Portland.

Like so many sites these days, there are dozens of permanent and semi-permanent vans and caravans. It’s a rolling, hilly kind of camp site, our own allocated pitch up high on a terrace with a view towards the sea and sandwiched between two caravans. The first thing that happens is that we blow the electric point with our plug-in lead- a mishap which has dogged us all of this year. The occupant of the caravan to our right, ‘Raymond’, emerges and strides down to reception, declaring that this is a regular occurrence here. Little does he know! The reception woman comes to reset everything and miraculously, we have electricity. So sure were we that we wouldn’t have we’ve brought our gas fridge, which is now redundant.

At Bagwell Farm they’ve thought of everything, with donkeys and goats, a well-stocked shop and their very own bar/restaurant. It’s not gourmet but will do for a lazy night. There’s also a pub nearby on the main road, accessed by a footpath across a field, although when we explore, in spite of the conventional bar we can see through the windows, it doesn’t seem to be doing much trade. We’re quite a way outside the village here and the walk is along a busy road without a pavement or a verge.

We’re here for the walks, so we strike out down through the site, down a field and to the coast path, Chesil Beach in our view, then follow the path by the water. The weather is on our side, for once, making the water in the lagoon that separates the shingle bank from the sea sparkle. There are some climbs but they’re worth the effort for the views over the farmland and the coast.

We turn in and up a track, [stopping to look at the dry stone wall which is being repaired] which takes us to a village- Langton Herring. It’s quaint and picturesque and typically Dorset, with stone cottages, narrow lanes, a tiny church and immaculate gardens. We’re flummoxed about which way to go but spot a sign and take a path through a working farmyard and up across the field again until we come to a copse and eventually out to the main road and the entrance to our site. Phew!

Novels by Jane Deans [Grace]: The Year of Familiar Strangers and The Conways at Earthsend. Visit my website: janedeans.com