Long Train Running

Posted on October 15, 2023 by Grace Lessageing

Our bus pulls into Vancouver station, along with the rest of the coach convoy. But there’s no platform. We’re facing the tracks, upon which sits a magnificent, gleaming, golden train, its tall carriages stretching both ways as far as the eye can see. In spite of the early hour and my tiredness I feel a frisson of excitement to see it, this iconic train: The Rocky Mountaineer. This is to be our conveyance for two whole days.

On leaving the bus, we must locate our carriage- marked on our boarding cards. Outside each, tall, double-decker carriage there are two stewards waiting to welcome us by the footplate and we must clamber up the iron steps to enter the ground floor. Inside, looking along the carriage, there is a panelled ante room lined with sofas and beyond, a dining compartment where window tables are set for four with pristine white tablecloths and gleaming cutlery. It’s a heartening sight!

There’s a semi-spiral set of stairs up to the seating area, reminding me of the double decker buses of my childhood. We locate our seats, which are large and comfortable. Before the train sets off we’re given information and instructions. There are four stewards in the carriage- two up and two down in the dining car. In addition to this there are kitchen staff in the tiny galley area, producing breakfasts and lunches. Each carriage is self-contained in this way- it’s a massive operation!

We move off, a slow rumble through the outskirts of Vancouver, past sidings and rolling stock, here and there passing elevated railway tracks, warehouses and retail parks, It’s not long before the first diners are summoned- and we must wait- except that while we are waiting, coffee and warm, delicious cherry cake is served to us, which revives me, although I’m hoping it doesn’t spoil the appetite for what is to be a very posh breakfast.

After a while we’re in the countryside, crossing a bridge over a wide river, a ‘skytrain’ winding above us, or following alongside the river. The travel is punctuated by snippets of information from the upstairs stewards, who regail us with stories and facts from time to time. There’s also an upstairs kitchen area from where drinks and snacks are dispensed, served to us in our seats whenever we like, however I’m not inclined to embark on cocktail consumption at this hour of the morning.

The passengers in our carriage consist of many British with a smattering of other non-Canadians; near us are an Australian couple, a German couple and a pair from a village a few miles away from us in the UK.

When we’re called down to the dining area we filter along to fill up tables. Besides the tables for four there are two odd tables for two, either side of the aisle. The German couple slide into one booth and we sit in the other. This becomes the pattern for the remainder of our meals. I’m a little disappointed not to be able to socialise so much, although Husband points out that the chatting couples are so interested in their conversations they’re missing the scenery and the sights- which is correct.

Breakfast consists of a fruit and yoghurt starter and a choice of main course, all immaculately presented and accompanied by tea or coffee and fruit juices. It is all delicious. Outside, the rolling countryside slides past…

Grace is the alter ego of novelist and short story writer, Jane Deans. To date I have two published novels to my name: The Conways at Earthsend [https://www.amazon.co.uk/Conways-at-Earthsend-Jane-Deans-ebook/dp/B08VNQT5YC/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2ZHXO7687MYXE&keywords=the+conways+at+earthsend&qid=1673350649&sprefix=the+conways+at+earthsend%2Caps%2C79&sr=8-1 and The Year of Familiar Strangers [https://www.amazon.co.uk/Year-Familiar-Strangers-Jane-Deans-ebook/dp/B00EWNXIFA/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2EQHJGCF8DSSL&keywords=The+year+of+familiar+strangers&qid=1673350789&sprefix=the+year+of+familiar+strangers%2Caps%2C82&sr=8-1 Visit my writer Facebook page [https://www.facebook.com/search/top?q=jane%20deans%2C%20novellist%2C%20short%20fiction%20and%20blog or my website: https://www.janedeans.com/

Vancouver on Foot

Posted on October 1, 2023 by Grace Lessageing

At Vancouver’s waterfront, seaplanes are taking off and coming in, giving short aerial tours of the bay. Strengthened with MacDonalds coffee and a pastry, we’ve opted to step out and wander in spite of the indecently early start brought on by change of time zone. The day started cool but as the sun gathers strength it feels warm and balmy. I realise I’ve one urgent task before we leave, which is to buy a raincoat, having foolishly left mine hanging in our hallway as I rushed out to the taxi to go to the station. But we’ll leave it until tomorrow, as I’ve no need of one yet.

The principal use of the quayside here is for cruise ships- mainly taking passengers to Alaska, as many of our fellow guests at the Fairmont are doing. Having looked at the terminal and front we turn along towards ‘Gastown’, an area not unlike Haight Ashbury in San Francisco, with characterful older buildings and quirky streets. Canada’s relaxed laws on cannabis use are much in evidence here, in the appearance of cannabis stores and in the aromas drifting as we walk!

It’s not far to the iconic gas clock, which blows a steamy whistle on the hour. The street architecture is older, the shops eclectic but with many cannabis outlets.

Buses here have racks on the front for bikes, which is a fine idea, and there are trolley buses, too, a sight I haven’t seen since my childhood in the UK.

We traipse around for a couple of hours. It seems a long morning, but of course it is, since we were up ultra early. As lunch time approaches we head for a supermarket we’d spotted on our first evening- just up from our hotel. It yields a wonderful deli which provides lunch. When we get back to our room I’m pleased to spot a fridge, so the guy at reception has been true to his word and provided one for my medication. Better still- we can store lunch items and beers in it!

Restored by lunch, we set off again, this time in the opposite direction and waterfront. Vancouver centre is almost an island. On the way from the airport, Pearl, our driver, had shown us Granville Island, accessed by bridge or a dinky pedestrian ferry, where food stalls cover a large area. Most of the tables, however are outside and the weather has turned gloomy and drizzly so we settle for a drink instead and decide to eat nearer home. The walk back is mostly uphill!

Later, we head back to Gas Town to find a resataurant and stumble upon an Italian bistro down some steps by the water. It’s cavernous and atmospheric and the food is delicious.

Vancouver- so far so good! We’ll see what tomorrow brings!

The Flight and the Fairmont

Posted on September 24, 2023 by Grace Lessageing

So, readers, it’s time to come clean. While you’ve been kind enough to visit Anecdotage and even, perhaps peruse the prose, Husband and I have been on far distant shores, in western Canada, touring part of the Canadian Rockies. This ambitious plan was hatched last year when we were thinking of big birthday [both] and wedding anniversary treats.

It’s a big trip. And I’m to discover that everything about this trip is big, including the Canadians themselves. This is first evident during our flight from Heathrow, when once we’ve boarded the Canada Airways flight to Vancouver [which is full] large bodies are squeezed into airline seats all over the place, not least next to myself. Husband and I are opposite each other with the aisle between- not a bad location for getting out etc. It so happens that the man next to me is, in fact British [from Devon] and very pleasant- even though he spills into my space. I’m glad of the aisle.

The cabin staff go through the motions on the 9+ hour flight but it’s clear they are air-weary, throwing out meals and drinks [drinks after the meal?] as fast as possible, unsmiling and bored. The food is terrible- some of the worst airline food I’ve ever encountered, but still…

At Vancouver the digital immigration is fast and efficient, the luggage not too long and soon we’re out in the arrivals hall where a smiling woman taxi-driver displays our name. Hooray! So far so good.

It’s a relief to step outside and sink into a taxi seat to be driven through Vancouver. The driver, Pearl is a fount of info as well as charming and chatty, sharing how much she enjoys British TV shows alongside points of interest. After the flight, and given that my home bedtime is approaching, it’s a lot to take in and I do my best to respond whilst also calculating the time!

The Vancouver suburbs, bathed in sunshine look leafy and well-to-do; streets lined with red maples, their leaves beginning to fall. Pearl tells us there’ll be some nice colour in the Rockies by now.

It’s about 45 mins in the heavy traffic but the tall towers of central Vancouver appear, shiny and reflective and contrasting with our hotel- the grand old Fairmont, an enormous brown edifice, then we’re plunging through a gap to an entrance [there are several] and stumbling out on to the pavement, grabbing cases, saying our goodbyes.

It’s all swish inside the lobby, with giant chandeliers and pristine marble floors. We stand in line to do all the form-filling stuff and at last we’re on our way to the room- up and up in the lift, along a corridor, along another corridor. The room is big and almost a suite- with a bathroom down a passageway. It’s furnished in huge, dark pieces and has a ‘fireplace’ of sorts. My first job is to stow my medication in the mini-bar, which, I discover is full of items and has not a cm to spare. OK. I remove a can from the door. Yikes! What have I done? The mini-bar has sensors inside indicating when items are removed! But it’s too late now. I insert my bottle and resolve to explain the dilemma at reception.

By now, though it’s still light and only mid afternoon in Vancover, it’s getting to the small hours in British time and we’re tired. Do we dare to get an hour or so’s nap? All advice is against doing such a thing, but we decide to clamber into the vast bed anyway and I’m soon asleep, to be woken by Husband after an hour. That’s all we’ve allowed ourselves. We shower and go out along our street, where it’s now twilight. It’s busy with traffic and pedestrians and there are bars and restaurants open, bustling with customers on this balmy Friday evening. A block or so along there’s a pub. Neither of us is hungry [even after ditching the filthy airline meal] but we go in, get a beer and people-watch a bit, staying as late as we’re able.

Of course, although I drop asleep straight away I’m awake at 2am and unable to drift back. We’ve both had enough by about 6am. We make tea [after a fashion, using tea bags from home and a water bottle for a teapot] and gradually greet the day. Outside it’s cool and we’re looking for a coffee shop nearby but MacDonald’s seems the only option- good enough coffee and a muffin thing.

We’re here for 3 nights and this is our first day- so best not to waste it sleeping!…

Anecdotage

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Tag Archives: Vancouver

Long Train Running

Vancouver on Foot

The Flight and the Fairmont