Tag Archives: France

La Fuite

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Vannes is a very pretty, medieval town in Brittany. We’re here for a few days’ second visit, enjoying beautiful warm sunshine for a walk along the footpath from our site, which begins in woods and emerges to boatyards, then a quayside thoroughfare into the centre of town. As we near the town it becomes landscaped with seating areas and planting. there’s a large concourse in front of the tourist information office, where the weather has brought out a lot of visitors, keeping the neighbouring cafes and ice cream vendors busy.

Vannes has a lovely network of ancient, half-timbered buildings lining its streets and a huge castle with attractive gardens. Near the top of the town lies the gothic cathedral. Everywhere is thronged with tourists, in and out of the gift shops or sitting outside cafes in the sun.

When we’ve had enough we spend some time searching for a bus stop with the correct number to take us back to site, but it’s easier said than done. We accost a driver, who tells us we’re in the wrong place for our bus and then, remarkably, offers to ferry us up to the bus station, saving our sore feet.

The site’s bar and cafe is open for cheap and cheerful meals. It’s not an extensive menu but the ‘faux-filet’ is very acceptable. We have a lazy last day in the sun with an evening stroll down to the shore for an ice cream.

We’re on the move again- southwards to make another stop at Bretignolles-sur-Mer, which is also known to us, although the site Husband has selected is also known to us and we know it’s a long way from Bretignolles’ tiny centre or seaside and opt to try another, which, as it turns out, is cheaper and more convenient,

We’ve pulled off the track and on to our pitch when some neighbours make us aware of a trail we’ve left along the lane. ‘It’s fine,’ I tell them, ‘it’s water.’

‘Non, non, non! they reply. ‘C’est gazole!’

Yikes! Diesel is leaking from our van! And it’s Saturday!

Husband crawls around on the grass underneath. His verdict: it looks to be the fuel pipe. The mood turns gloomy. I search online for garages, finding a local one with a 5* review from a British motorhome owner, which looks promising. But we can do nothing until Monday except find out exactly where the place is.

We set off on foot to follow the route on my phone, stopping to ask a man busily tidying his garden if he knows it- a man who retreats to find his wife [the English speaker], who immediately offers to take us in her car! ‘C’est normal!’ she cries when we say it’s too much. It’s just as well she did take us- it’s a fair way on foot.

In the meantime, while we wait for Monday, we set off to look at Bretignolles, which Husband claims we’ve never seen- and discover that of course- we have been here and it’s clear as soon as we get to the centre; the square with the uninspiring church, the market hall, the cafes, the little street with a few clothing shops. I even remember where the supermarket is. Not being an extensive metropolis, it’s soon looked at [and recalled]. I don’t feel like photographing it a second time.

On Monday we pack up early and make for the garage. I’ve prepared the French: ‘Une fuite dans le traduite de carburrant’ or thereabouts. We pull up outside. I slept badly and have that cold, stretched feeling of anxiety/exhaustion as we push open the door to reception. I launch into my speech- just as well I prepared as Monsieur speaks no English. He frowns irritably and sighs- not auspicious- and comes out to look.

Then he beckons the van up and towards the workshop and summons a mechanic from the depths. He delves under the bonnet, unscrews things, takes bits away, returns, screws things, bids Husband to start up, stop, start up, stop. He has a few words of English.

It gets done. ‘Phew!’ says Monsieur, laughing.

Then we’re off south.

Novels by Jane Deans [Grace]: The Year of Familiar Strangers and The Conways at Earthsend. Visit my website: janedeans.com

Van to Vannes

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We’ve not been back long from Malta- but feel it’s time to get off somewhere in the van. There have been unfortunate circumstances punctuating our van travel in the last few years but we’re hopeful, now, that things have been resolved.

We won’t be doing anything exceptional, rather visiting familiar territory in easy, comfortable France, where vans and motorhomes are catered for better than anywhere.

Packing the van is never my favourite part of van travel but it gets done and we manage the early morning scramble [when I have to wrestle with the fridge contents] and short drive to our local port of Poole, arriving to a quiet check-in with only a few vehicles and even fewer campervans.

Then we’re on board and the sun is streaming through the windows as we exit Poole Harbour- a very beautiful area, for those who don’t know it- and enjoy Brittany Ferries’ coffee and pastries, which are very welcome. Then I do my usual descent down to the couchettes for a snooze and a read, which is really the only way to pass the four hour crossing. We’ve long since given up looking round the shop or wandering the decks. Other than one or two families with very young children or babies, the boat is quiet.

Once arrived, we go first to the ‘Orange’ shop at Cherbourg [known to us now] to get a SIM for our little mobile internet device- then we’re set. And we belt down our well known route, past Avranches, Mont Saint Michel etc until we arrive at Saint Brice en Cogles, a small town with a wonderful aire that we know very well having used it for years. There is always a new addition, an extension or an improvement to this free parking area with all services, in front of a cemetery and next to the police station! And we’ve a handful of French motorhomes for company.

The weather is too lovely to start cooking so we wander into the little town to find a bar- not easy this evening when most places seem closed. But the trusty PMU is open- although it’s not obvious- and busy with locals, so we can find a table and enjoy a beer- or two. Then it’s back to the van for dinner.

In the morning there are the usual chores- emptying, filling with water, ditching trash [taking great care over the recycling- the French are very particular in providing a range of bins] and we’re off again, heading south. And on to Vannes, Brittany, on the Gulf of Morbihan, to a site we’ve stayed at before- one of a chain of sites. Site chains are becoming increasingly common now. They can be more expensive than smaller, independent sites, but this one- part of the daftly named ‘Flower Campings’ conglomerate, is not too pricey, is convenient and offers all we need.

The skies over Vannes are blue, the temperature heating up and we’re here for a few days. We’ll take another look at the city of Vannes, which we can walk to along a very pleasant footpath and we can also relax in some much needed sun.

Novels by Jane Deans [Grace]: The Year of Familiar Strangers and The Conways at Earthsend. Visit my website: janedeans.com

A Place of no Interest

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Machecoul. This is the place we’ve selected to break our journey back northwards, towards home, We’re not in a rush, so can have two or three nights and see the town.

The weather is changing from heatwave into unsettled now, as it is at home, although to begin with it’s still sunny- just not so hot.

The first thing we notice as we approach Machecoul is the giant church. It’s often the case that French churches are huge buildings, dwarfing everthing around them. This one has two imposing twin spires. We turn off into the abrupt entrance to the site, which is municipal and lies on the edge of the town. It’s all perfectly laid out and tidy, next to the river and a canoe centre which is busy on this late Friday afternoon, rumbustious activities with groups of children.

We’ve barely checked in and parked up before a pair of mallards home in on us- quack! quick! New source of food arrived! They positively race towards us as we reverse into the space. Once I’ve unearthed the remai ns of a baguette and shredded it for them, they settle down on the grass next to us. The female- as usual- is much bolder than her partner and after some coaxing gobbles the bread from my hand. The male hangs back but gets cross and attacks her over stray crumbs.

Later, we walk across the bridge and into the small town, where it soon becomes clear that the church is the main/only item of interest. Otherwise there are a couple of streets of shops [and ex-shops], one or two bars and a covered marketplace. There’s also a tourist information office, although it’s mystifying what tourists should do here. There is supposed to be a chateau, but there’s no obvious sign of it- certainly no pointers to its whereabouts.

There’s a PMU bar- always to be relied on, although it doesn’t sell food. It’s busy. Next door is a restaurant, which seems to be the only one operating. It could also get very busy!

Later on we decide to give the restaurant a go. There’s a small table for two by the window. The food is very good- which is a relief!

In the morning, having got bread for lunch, I pop into the [now open] tourist information for a map of the local area, where a lone young woman has been tasked with holding the fort and discover that the chateau is actually opposite our camp site, behind some hefty, locked gates. Who knew? She plies me with a brochure. IT seems, however that the chateau is, in fact a ruin and also cannot be visited! This town seems determined not to attract tourists if it can help it!

The local map suggests walking and cycling routes, so in the afternoon we decide to try the walking route, making our way to the start point and following along a nondescript street by a small ‘canal’- one waterway that would not accomodate anything resembling a barge.

The route is mystifying- sending us, basically, around a housing estate. After an hour or so of trekking along suburban streets past house after house we’ve seen nothing of interest and give up. On the way back we do pass the ‘chateau’, catching a glimpse of the ruins through the thick hedge of trees.

We’ve one final day here and need to run the van out to charge the batteries, so we revisit a coastal fishing hamlet we cycled to years ago. It’s wild and unspoilt, with long rows of fishing huts and just one canalside bar and restaurant. Further on we stop in a deserted car park and make tea. We’ll be off north again tomorrow…

For fiction by me, Jane Deans, search for novels: The Conways at Earthsend [an eco-thriller] and The Year of Familiar Strangers [mystery drama]. Visit my website: janedeans.com

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Parched in des Barques

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Husband has looked through our ACSI book and found us a site thatis new to us, although we know the area well. The weather has continued to warm up as we travel and is edging into hot, rather than warm.

We cross the Charente at La Roche sur Yon, turn on to smaller roads then head for a small peninsula, driving through some villages until we reach the seaside village of Port des Barques. There’s not a lot to the village, although clearly there’s a big focus on shellfish, judging by the stalls lining the seafront car park. Opposite there’s a row of buildings with maybe two or three bars- that’s about it!

We’ll investigate the bars and places to eat later or tomorrow, but we must go on down through the village and to the other side to get to the site.

The site, ‘La Garenne’, [the warren], is vast. Besides being in the ACSI book it’s also a municipal camp site. These are often good value, ‘no frills’ type sites with good services. La Garenne has been kept tidy but not manicured or planted up. The pitches are huge, most with a combination of sun and shade, which suits us nicely as we need sun for solar power and shade for ourselves. We check in and choose a place on a corner near reception, with a big, dense tree on one side and open on the other. Perfect!

The sea is just across the road, although the beach is rocky rather than sandy. Once we’ve set up [which takes all of 5 minutes including pulling out the awning] we take to the shade. Opposite our pitch there is a mobile kiosk and a fenced off area furnished with tables and chairs- all in the shade of the trees. There is also a menu board. It all looks very promising. We chug down some cold beers. Husband asks, “Do we want to cook anything tonight?” It’s hot and we’ve travelled all day and I don’t need asking twice.

At this pop-up restaurant the menu is simple but perfect for a hot evening. There are also more cold beers! I’m in awe of the two women running it, since there’s a steady flow of diners requiring all sorts of things including ice creams and they are on the go constantly in the draining heat, one taking orders and serving and the other cooking. Cooking!

After eating we sit outside long after dark as it’s far too hot to go in. Up among the branches of the dense conifer on our pitch, huge buzzing insects lurch in and out. After much deliberation I decide they must be cicadas, their wings providing the loud buzz as they blunder around. There are also swallows nesting in the laundry, tiny chicks peering out waiting to be fed.

At around midnight we retire to the interior of the van, where in spite of opening all skylights and windows, blacking out the windscreen with our reflective sheet and using nothing but a sheet, the night passes in a restless, sticky drag of wakefulness. The morning dawns just as hot. We’ve just read that Dr Michael Mosely, media health guru, has died while hiking in the heat of a Greek afternoon. Nevertheless, someone has to trek up to the village for bread. Hmmm…

For fiction by me, Jane Deans, search for novels: The Conways at Earthsend [an eco-thriller] and The Year of Familiar Strangers [mystery drama]. Visit my website: janedeans.com

Friendly French!

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Once we’re en route again and heading south, the weather gets better and better. We’d been in a quandary over what we should do, since the electrics have failed again, as they did on our ill-fated Spanish jaunt earlier in the year. They’re supposed to have been repaired…this can only be resolved once we’ve returned home. But should we go north or south? The forecast decides for us- we’ll get more sun and hence more solar power from heading south, so we opt to press on.

It’s a longish haul down the coast and towards La Rochelle. We’ve been down this way countless times now, but we’re headed to an unfamiliar town and site. It’s at Tharron Plage, a satellite of the oddly named ‘St Michel Chef Chef’. The site is ‘Le Vieux Chateau’, although when we arrive it’s hard to see why. Across the road there’s a cylindrical, ochre coloured tower and a long wall; not overly chateau-like, but still…

The site is small and almost entirely occupied by French holiday makers. It becomes clear very soon after we arrive that this is one of the most friendly and welcoming places we’ve stayed- the usually reserved French greeting us and chatting each time they pass.

By now it has become very warm. We have a wander down the road to the seafront and along to the tiny seaside at Tharron Plage and it’s very basic and undeveloped- which is lovely. Along the shoreline, fishing huts on stilts are dotted. There’s a stretch of sand and a few streets with bars, ice cream parlours and cafes but little else, except that the ‘Velodysee’ cycle track runs right along the front. This means that we can get the bikes down off the van and have a go.

It’s a long time since I cycled and some unpleasant physical interventions have taken place since I was in the saddle- but I’m keen to have a go, especially as there’s a ready-made, tarmac, off-road cycle path to use! But sadly, when the bikes are lifted down, my lovely, trusty, Specialized has a major puncture, which Husband sets about mending the following morning, removing the inner tube and submerging it to find the hole. Somehow, though, it proves impossible, since when we think we’ve patched it, it still deflates. Husband spends a lot of time on it- to no avail. A friendly French neighbour tries to help out, too, but all to no avail.

We research and find a bike shop in St Michel Chef Chef. Although it’s Sunday and will be closed we decide to walk and find it- which we do- and yes- it’s closed along with everything else.

In a further twist- Husband’s bike, the Charge Cooker seizes up in an act of rebellion against the heat- which it has done before- so neither bike is rideable. Ho hum.

On Monday it’s still hot, but Husband nobly sets off on foot to get some bread for lunch as there’s none available on site today, meanwhile the friendly Frenchman tells me that everywhere, including the boulangeries, is shut. Husband returns empty handed but with news of a tiny Pizzeria that is open and serving lunches. In the evening we go to a cheerful corner cafe where I get moules and frites and watch as a tiny girl outside at a table tucks into the same thing with gusto!

Then we’re off once more- a little further south as the weather turns ever hotter…

For fiction by me, Jane Deans, search for novels: The Conways at Earthsend [an eco-thriller] and The Year of Familiar Strangers [mystery drama]. Visit my website: janedeans.com

Unholy Trinite

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A British woman in the pitch next door to ours drones on and on, a constant monologue, a commentary to her husband about her activities: ‘I’m putting this in here’, ‘I’m going to take these in’, the pegs are under there’, ‘you’ll need to wash that’. Later, once they’ve cooked their evening meal on a grill- accompanied by the commentary- she launches into a new monologue about rose wine- how the deeper the colour, the sweeter it is, or something. She intersperses each comment with ‘but I don’t know anything about wine’ or ‘I know bugger all about wine’.

When I meet her at our shared water tap she treats me to a story about her new, grey top and how the wind blew their washing rack on to their teapot, which in turn tipped over on to it and she doesn’t know how she’ll get it dry.

Next morning they’re engaged in the commentary-laden project of moving their caravan into a new position- a task that seems to require emptying it entirely and using their car to manoevre it round. This is apparently [or so I can’t help hearing] due to their lack of shade. So when a member of staff comes along to tell us we must either leave or move because we only booked three nights it’s not too much of a catastrophe- except that I feel incensed that there’s no acknowledgement that we did, in fact, reserve for four nights.

We’ve been here, at La Trinite sur Mer, for a couple of days. For our first day, which was a little overcast and breezy, we walked around the town then, on a whim, took the ‘Noddy’ train trip out to the Standing Stones at next door Carnac- which are an amazing, vast, neolithic site, although we’ve been before. The little train is relaxing and there’s information on the headphones, of course. Back in town we get a coffee, served by [yet another, for those following this blog] ill-tempered woman. Not all the bars and cafes along the prom are open.

Yesterday we took the van out [partly in the interests of battery charging] and looked at a few places- some beautiful wild dunes by a deserted beach where we lunched, Port Louis, which hadn’t yielded a coffee shop. The weahter was hot, sultry and sticky, making walking and sightseeing hard work. Then thunderstorms moved in, the rain so heavy we needed to pull in and stop to wait it out.

When I wake on the third morning there’s sune pouring in and a fresher feel. We can sit outside, have coffee in the sunshine, read a book. In the afternoon we walk down a cute footpath outside the entrance to the site and up around the headland, the coast rock-strewn and rugged, then it turns along the beside small beaches and back towards the town.

We’re off again next day, heading south towards an area we’ve visited several times- around Pornic. To get there we must cross the stunning bridge at Saint Nazaire which crosses the Loire at its estuary- then we’re over and heading on in blue skies and sunshine…

For fiction by me, Jane Deans, search for novels: The Conways at Earthsend [an eco-thriller] and The Year of Familiar Strangers [mystery drama]. Visit my website: janedeans.com

It Never Rains but it Pours

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When we arrive to Villedieu les Poeles, a little old Normandy town where we’ll spend a couple of nights, the road to our chosen campsite is barricaded off and a large expanse of the town square car park is occupied by teams of Petanque players- it’s a Sunday afternoon. It seems the only way round it is to drive the wrong way along a one-way street, which we do, having watched others. the street up to the site is narrow and blocked by a Belgian car and caravan, but we make it in and get a pitch.

Regular readers of Anecdotage will have learned of our issues earlier this year on a jinxed trip to Spain. when we were without internet and devoid of plug-in electricity…and surprise! The same things happen again.

We are lucky in having excellent batteries, which can keep us going as long as we move every couple of days, but when we move on we’ll attempt to get it fixed. We can also go to the ‘Orange’ shop and get a SIM for our mobile wifi device- so that will be sorted.

In the evening we drift into town, find a restaurant and have a compensatory meal.

Next day we’re in need of a walk, so after lunch we set off to explore Villedieu les Poeles, which rewards our efforts with loads of interesting and historical information. Iy used to be a town of copper foundries, in particular the making of bells, and the copper workers lived in small courtyards accessed by passageways, which are still there. The courtyards consist of small stone houses with external staircases and many connecting alleys and passages.

Down at the end of the main street and around a corner is the great bell foundry- still working, but we’re unable to see it on a Sunday. All in all it’s a delightful town and well worth a visit.

We spend another night here then we’re off, first to a motorhome service place we’ve found. It’s not far, however we arrive to the forecourt and a notice to say it’s closed today. Then we pop over to Saint Lo and the ‘Orange’ shop, where it’s easy enough to arm ourselves with internet, at last!

We opt to stay in the area for one more night and try the motorhome place tomorrow, but we’ll go and visit Vire to make the most of the day. It’s not a charming, historic town like Villedieu, although it does have the remnants of old Norman walls and a towering archway, decked out with D-Day flags. We wander some more streets then decide there’s not a lot else of interest. The next site is at Torigni-sur Vire but it’s a tortuous trip on country lanes to get there.

By now the weather has closed in and rain has started, nevertheless we decide to take a walk into town and to a creperie that’s been recommended to us. Taking a detour by the lake adjoining the site we find the restaurant- and it’s closed, so we continue into the village where a sign for ‘pub’ beckons us and when we get there it’s very quaint amd olde worlde inside, so we get beers, then I ask if we can eat there- there are boards outside touting various meals. The publican, who is busy peeling potatoes on the bar- answers with a stream of incomprehensible French, too fast for me- and looks very disgruntled, at which we finish the beers and repair to our campsite’s snack bar for pork and chips- and very welcome it is, too!

For fiction by me, Jane Deans, search for novels: The Conways at Earthsend [an eco-thriller] and The Year of Familiar Strangers [mystery drama]. Visit my website: janedeans.com

Mont So Different

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For the duration of this trip we’ve kept mostly to places we are very familiar with, destinations on France’s west coast, places we’ve spent a great deal of time in over the years. I’ve explained in previous [recent] posts how remarkable the changes to these places are; how sites have exploded with development some barely recognisable [one because it wasn’t the site we’d visited after all!].

But nothing has prepared us for how much Mont-St-Michel, the iconic, abbey-topped mound in the sea off Normandy’s coast, has altered- not the mound itself, of course. That looks much the same as ever. But the surrounding infrastructure has been exploited beyond belief.

We last visited twenty something years ago whilst we were still tent campers, driving to the continent in an ancient estate car loaded with bikes and all the camping gear we’d cobbled together from various sources. We were returning from somewhere- Italy, perhaps? The summer holidays were grinding towards a conclusion- always a gloomy prospect. It had been a long day’s drive to get us far enough north, not helped by the weather, which had turned wet.

For an overnight stop we’d opted to shell out and get a budget hotel, something we sometimes did for overnight stops when holidaying with a tent. We used ‘Formula 1’ hotels- no frills, clean, basic rooms offering a cheapish breakfast with surprisingly good coffee. We tried one. It was ‘complet’. We drove to another city: ‘complet’- and another…you get the picture. At last, as the dark descended it became obvious that there were no rooms to be had. The hour was late as we pulled up, in the rain, to the gates of a camp site…which was…closed.

I’ve slept overnight in a car a couple of times. It never makes for a great night’s sleep. We’d no option to clamber into the back, since the entire space was filled with camping gear, so we pulled a duvet into the front, draped it over and tried to relax. I may have dozed a bit. It was a long night. At about 6am we’d had enough and clambered out After finding cups, water and our toothbrushes we cleaned our teeth, the best we could do.

Mont-St-Michel was nearby so we went, parking up on a verge beside the road leading to the pedestrian causway which is tidal. At this early hour it was eerily quiet. We set off over the cobbled sea bed and got an early, tourist-free look around this iconic island.

This time, though, we’re in the van. Signs on the approach inform us of the whereabouts of the motorhome parking. In the event it’s the furthest from the mount, although a good place to lunch, after which we set off, leaving our parking ticket in the van. It’s a fair distance, even to the bridge- there is no longer a tidal causway, owing, I suppose to maximisation of tourist numbers. There are shuttle buses coming and going and throngs of people along the road.

We walk it, the long, bendy road and the bridge. Then we’re into Mont St Michel and ascending, with difficulty, through the crowds on the steep pathway. They are in the shops, in the doorways, in the centre of the path, across the path- it’s quite a task to get far enough up to be able to walk unhindered, but at last we get far enough up the slope to be free of most, since many are not willing to climb so high.

We’ve been before, so we’re not doing an in-depth look, but there’s time to nip into a store for an item for the naff shelves [https://gracelessageing.com/2018/07/08/the-ghastly-gathering/] before we leave and trek back. I realise I should have brought our car park ticket with us, since the payment machines are dotted along the way but not very close to the motorhome park. Hmm.. We’re both a bit footsore by now but I still have to get to the van, get the ticket, yomp to the machine and yomp back to van before we can exit…but I do- only to discover we could have paid on the way out- ho hum…

We’re doing a time-honoured crossing back from Ouistreham, our usual departure, using the aire by the ferry terminal, only stopping on the way to reserve a table at the ‘Phare’ hotel restaurant, which we’ve liked on previous occasions. Once installed in the busy aire we wander into town for a beer in the sunshine.

I’m sad to report that this time, the ‘Phare’ did not come up to scratch. While the restaurant was not full, we still had a long, frustrating wait to be served, plus a 40 minute wait for our main course. A second round of drinks failed to arrive. We’ll be trying somewhere new next time.

Early next morning we’re up, stowed, ready and roll round to the ferry queue- but we’ll be back…

Grace is the alter ego of novelist and short story writer, Jane Deans. To date I have two published novels to my name: The Conways at Earthsend [https://www.amazon.co.uk/Conways-at-Earthsend-Jane-Deans-ebook/dp/B08VNQT5YC/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2ZHXO7687MYXE&keywords=the+conways+at+earthsend&qid=1673350649&sprefix=the+conways+at+earthsend%2Caps%2C79&sr=8-1 and The Year of Familiar Strangers [https://www.amazon.co.uk/Year-Familiar-Strangers-Jane-Deans-ebook/dp/B00EWNXIFA/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2EQHJGCF8DSSL&keywords=The+year+of+familiar+strangers&qid=1673350789&sprefix=the+year+of+familiar+strangers%2Caps%2C82&sr=8-1 Visit my writer Facebook page [https://www.facebook.com/search/top?q=jane%20deans%2C%20novellist%2C%20short%20fiction%20and%20blog or my website: https://www.janedeans.com/

Returns and revisits

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We leave the Isle of Noiremoutier via the ‘Passage du Gois’, a paved causeway that is exposed at certain times of day when the tide is out. It is just about wide enough for two vehicles to pass. On the approach road, cars and vans are parked up on the verges but we’re able to descend on to the cobbled road across the sea without too much trouble. We progress slowly across, the exposed seabed stratching away on either side teeming with people. They are collecting shellfish, barefoot with trousers rolled up or welly-clad, entire families sometimes, making a day out of it. There’s 4.2k of the causeway, then we’re at the other side, where oyster shacks and seafood cafes line the road and there’s a convenient aire du pique-nique for us to stop for lunch.

We’re heading back to another site we’ve stayed at before, at La Bernerie-en-Retz in South Brittany, although it’s quite some time since we were here with our little VW pop-top van, our first van. The site is memorable in that Husband nipped out in the twilight and returned with a hedgehog tucked under his jacket. He brought it into the van and I gave it some pate before we returned it to the hedge. But the site is yet another that has become part of a chain, developed, acquired multiple swimming pools, slides and faux-cliffs as well as a vast number of chalets. Ho hum…

We also discover that we’re about to exit the discount dates on our ACSI card, something we’d neglected to consider, so we opt to cut things shorter, using aires or municipal sites to get home and return a little earlier than planned.

We have an afternoon stroll down to the town and the seafront. It’s pleasant enough although nothing special and there doesn’t appear to be anywhere whizzo to dine.

Next day we set off towards Pornic for what will be our third visit to the picturesque port town. We’ve done this cycle before. It’s more undulating than our cycling has been so far this trip and requires a fair bit of effort for ancient legs, but we get there, park the bikes and wander round in the sunshine. There’s a railway station by the bridge- last time we’d cycled there and brought our bikes back on the train to La Bernerie. On this occasion, though we’re cycling back to site.

Our discount ACSI camping card having run out of discount dates, it’s time to curtail our wanderings and begin the trek north, so we set off on a much driven route towards an aire that we used years ago when we made the enormous gaff of parking in the service bay. In the morning we woke to irate faces glaring in at the windows of our little VW pop-top. Now we’re no longer rookie aire users and know better. The aire is at St Brice-en-Cogles, an extremely quiet town, although the aire is magnificent- large, with marked out hard-standing places, toilets and all services [and all for the princely sum of…nothing].

We just about manage to get a meal in the only restaurant that isn’t ‘complet’ then in the morning we’re off again, following our usual route towards the bay of Mont St Michel…

Grace is the alter ego of novelist and short story writer, Jane Deans. To date I have two published novels to my name: The Conways at Earthsend [https://www.amazon.co.uk/Conways-at-Earthsend-Jane-Deans-ebook/dp/B08VNQT5YC/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2ZHXO7687MYXE&keywords=the+conways+at+earthsend&qid=1673350649&sprefix=the+conways+at+earthsend%2Caps%2C79&sr=8-1 and The Year of Familiar Strangers [https://www.amazon.co.uk/Year-Familiar-Strangers-Jane-Deans-ebook/dp/B00EWNXIFA/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2EQHJGCF8DSSL&keywords=The+year+of+familiar+strangers&qid=1673350789&sprefix=the+year+of+familiar+strangers%2Caps%2C82&sr=8-1 Visit my writer Facebook page [https://www.facebook.com/search/top?q=jane%20deans%2C%20novellist%2C%20short%20fiction%20and%20blog or my website: https://www.janedeans.com/

The not so Super Super-U

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Some time in between leaving a site and travelling to another there will be grocery shopping to do. I’ve no objection at all to foreign supermarkets, in fact I quite enjoy seeing the range of different or exotic products on offer, none more so than Tesco Lotus in Thailand, where the array of items is mysterious and fascinating.

French supermarkets range from bijou to vast and the biggest sell just about everything [barring ships or hotels]. A cheese section alone can take hours to peruse. In the commercial centre we’ve arrived to, Husband is held up in an ‘Intersports’, deliberating over bike accessories and urges me to get on and shop without him, even though the chances of his locating me in the gargantuan Super-U are as remote as my finding a Sweet-and-Sour sauce, about which, more later…

Somehow, this trip has been planned in a way that has us between places on Sundays- meaning that shopping must take place on a day that the French regard as sacrosanct, supermarkets being open, at best, up until midday so we need to get a crack on if we’re not to be left in the lurch. On one such Sunday, the shops are entirely closed although it always possible to get bread, plus I carry one or two contingency foods such as pasta and ready-made sauce.

The first hurdle in the giant Super-U is to find a trolley. I’m armed with our tiny, plastic ‘sniglet’ [named by ourselves] in order to release one from its chains, thus eliminating the need for a coin. Said sniglet was a gift from a site called ‘La Chaumiere’, high up near the Belgian border, years ago. La Chaumiere is a story in itself…

Seeing a couple emerge from the car park with a trolley, I find one. There are hoards of boutiques and stores to trundle past before entry to the supermarket, then I’m in, past the household stuff, past the ‘offers’, past a whole load of things that could easily waste my precious time.

I arrive at the beer section feeling smug. It was easy. Then I grab a baguette on my way to the fruit and veg. It must all be weighed, which is commonplace for large stores. I need fruit and nut mix and can get it from a row of dispensers against a wall, the hoppers letting down an amount into a paper bag via a handle. So far so good. I continue around the fruit and veg counters. French fresh produce is luscious; the nectarines large, ripe and juicy, the melons like ice cream, the tomatoes huge and flavoursome. Before long I’ve a pile of bags to weigh. At the machines there’s the usual queue but once I get there I see they’ve introduced a new stage to the weighing in that I must select the bag I’ve used. I work my way through the weighing and continue to collect more goods, slogging up and down the neverending aisles in searches- some fruitful, some not.

I find the oat milk [only ever long-life in the supermarche] and some tinned veg, then search in vain for Sweet-and-Sour sauce, tracking backwards and forwards along the Asian cuisine aisle several times. This vexes me! I can ask where to locate most things but I don’t know the word for ‘sour’, although I can look it up for next time.

I’m ready for the checkout, having spent a long time. I’m still, however in good time before the srore closes. The tills are busy. I choose one with a short queue and am immediately subjected to a cross tirade from a woman pointing at an overhead sign- something to do with the cafe. I move to the next, which, it is pointed out by the woman, is about to close. I move to another and wait.

I begin to load the shopping on to the belt, soon getting to the fruit and nut mix which, horror of horrors, has not been weighed. The young woman is kindly- would I like to go and weigh it? Yes. I leave the checkout and yomp back through the store, wait at the scales, navigate through the instructions and get my label, then gallop back to the checkout, where my trolley has been pushed to the side, the small pile of items she’s checked through at the end, the impatient next customer piling the contents of her trolley on to the belt, leaving no room for me to complete unloading.

I’m left to pass my food items one by one to the checkout lady and pack them under the irate gaze of the woman behind me.

It’s all in the bags, all in the trolley ready for off. Then I place my card into the machine, where it is roundly rejected. This happens repeatedly. I try a different card. Rejection. It’s not my day.

Much like the cavalry, at this point, Husband appears. We are led over to customer services. He uses his card. The transaction is approved.

We go to the van, stow away the shopping, make coffee, munch the pastries I’ve managed to buy [after having to ask how to use the bakery purchase machine].

Vous ne pouvez pas tous les gagner…

Grace is the alter ego of novelist and short story writer, Jane Deans. To date I have two published novels to my name: The Conways at Earthsend [https://www.amazon.co.uk/Conways-at-Earthsend-Jane-Deans-ebook/dp/B08VNQT5YC/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2ZHXO7687MYXE&keywords=the+conways+at+earthsend&qid=1673350649&sprefix=the+conways+at+earthsend%2Caps%2C79&sr=8-1 and The Year of Familiar Strangers [https://www.amazon.co.uk/Year-Familiar-Strangers-Jane-Deans-ebook/dp/B00EWNXIFA/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2EQHJGCF8DSSL&keywords=The+year+of+familiar+strangers&qid=1673350789&sprefix=the+year+of+familiar+strangers%2Caps%2C82&sr=8-1 Visit my writer Facebook page [https://www.facebook.com/search/top?q=jane%20deans%2C%20novellist%2C%20short%20fiction%20and%20blog or my website: https://www.janedeans.com/