Tag Archives: travel

Tavira Island Revisited

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We’ve had enough time to get familiar with our surroundings in Tavira and even to find a regular bar. Hoping for some late afternoon let-up in the heat we step out for a stroll, although exiting the hotel doors still feels like entering a boiler room. We walk down the steepish hill to the tiny triangle housing bars and restaurants, then on over the river to a larger square overlooked by an imposing civic building. Book stalls line the path along the river. A stage is being installed here with rows of seats lined up. Then it’s along through some gardens to the market hall. Just past here, the ferry to Tavira Island is moored. It would be fun [and cooler], wouldn’t it, to go and look, for old times sake?

We last came many years ago. It’s only 2.50 euros for the short trip and we’re just in time to bundle on, cramming inside and perching at the end of benches- the previous passengers being very reluctant ro budge up- or even to pull their beach bags on to laps! t’s all very familiar- chugging along the river towards the estuary, stopping at Quatro Aguas and out into open water, before arriving at the jetty and stepping off with everyone else. A tree-lined, paved path leads towards the beach, through a conglomeration of cafes, bars and restaurants- far more, surely than were here 20+ years ago?

We continue to the beach. All that time ago, there’d been nothing but a massive expanse of sand, as far as we could see, with nothing on it. We’d put towels down. I remember falling asleep, waking with that slight smear of dribble that emerges during daytime naps, and being told by Husband [pre-Husband in those days] that I’d been snoring.

Today, when we get to the end of the paved path, wooden duck boarding leads off in all directions- to row upon row of sunbeds- stretching away into the distance and to various structures. It’s busy, although not full. Some of the sunbeds, the posher ones, are those with drapes over the top= others are bog-standard with sunshades. The best thing is that the island is blessed with a gentle breeze-.We wander through the restaurants, most of which have displays of hapless sea creatures. Presumable they’re mainly catering for lunchtimes, since the last ferry is 8pm ish, although there is a camspsite [a new addition since our previous visit].

We’re not prepared with beach paraphernalia this afternoon- but we’re not up for any more roasting in the enclosed brazier of the hotel pool complex- so we’ll definitely be returning tomorrow. For now, we get an ice cream then make our way back to the jetty, returning to town, where we stop off at our ‘local’ for a beer, of course.

Then it’s a slog back up the hill. En route we hit on the idea of picking up a couple of things from the bakery to take with us next day, on our way to the ferry.

Novels by Jane Deans [Grace]: The Year of Familiar Strangers and The Conways at Earthsend. Visit my website: janedeans.com

A Taste of Tavira

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The neurotic ex-pat woman I’m squeezed in next to on this budget flight to Faro leans forward and closes her eyes in an ecclesiastical manner as we touch down on the runway. While the plane rolls towards the terminal she tells me it’s 35 degrees outside. 35 degrees? When we’d looked at the forecast for Portugal, pre- booking, we’d been informed that the temperature would be a very pleasant 25ish! And it’s gone 8pm, too!

Still- we’re here and stumbling off towards arrivals, hot or not. And it is very warm standing in the queue to have passports scrutinised- warm enough to induce a nasty fit in one of the waiting visitors, who falls to the floor, convulsing. The Portuguese airport staff spring into action, running in with first aid packs and all is restored.

We’re transported to our hotel by a rotund taxi driver. It’s a 40 minute journey, though not unpleasant- even though the driver’s musical tastes do not exactly match our own.

I don’t recognise or recall the outskirts of Tavira, which we visited over 20 years ago. Our hotel is in a commanding, elevated position on top of a hill and quite central, but we are to discover that the steep climb back to it is taxing in high temperatures.

We stumble into the cool of the air-conditioned reception area and are offfered a welcome drink of…wine. ‘White or Red?’ I make a tentative request for a beer, which is turned down. So much for that then-

Having checked in, we go up to find our room, which is at the end of a long, long corridor- it’s a little unnerving due to the decor, fake panelling concealing all the rooms’ doors and illuminated by floor lights- all very strange. But the room is fine, has a balcony and overlooks the hotel pool.

We’ve arrived late, having not eaten but the hotel’s restaurant is still open, although we are in almost solitary splendour, with only one other couple dining there. An enormous array of starters is arranged around an oval buffet – just about anything and everything, and it’s tempting to try a bit of everything- except that we’ve a main course to get through, too. I’ve found, these days that multiple courses are way too much. I could happily have done with starter only.

We discover that the top floor of the hotel houses an open air bar and it’s marginally cooler up there, with views over the top of tavira, a pleasant enough way to end our first evening.

Next morning the dining room is vastly changed and is teeming with diners. A pianist at a grand piano accompanies the activity with a selection of easy-listening musak. I’m not a breakfaster at home, but here where it’s included I’m happy with some fruit, eggs and toast.

We decide, on this first day, to chillax, preparing, then making our way down to the pool. There’s a hiatus when we are baffled as to the route but it’s via a large balcony on the ground floor then down some steps. Again, the weather is extremely hot and not condusive to sitting in the sun, though by the looks of the sunbeds this opinion is not shared by everyone, as most residents are roasting themselves to a scarlet crisp in the sweltering rays.

In the hotel lifts, stern instructions about not bagging sunbeds in advance are posted up. Even so, we must hunt for them and when we do locate two, we haul them across to the shade, where we stay, reading and dozing.

While it’s still hot, in the evening we brave the oven-like temperature and stroll down to the little town square, which has plenty of bars and cafes. It’s pretty and characterful- just the place for an evening beer and a meal al fresco…

For fiction by me, Jane Deans, search for novels: The Conways at Earthsend [an eco-thriller] and The Year of Familiar Strangers [mystery drama]. Visit my website: janedeans.com

Budget Flights- a Stress Test

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We don’t have enough time for a van trip [and the van is still in need of repair] but we can squidge in a short trip somewhere if we fly. Short-haul flight is not something we’ve been in the habit of doing. Under normal circumstances we’d use our home-on-wheels for forays into Europe, but needs must, since we both have health appointments to fit in.

But we’ve a few days spare, and having looked at what’s available we see that there’s a short trip to Portugal – and the weather forecast tells us that the temperature is not too hot- high 20s but not 30s. We can do it!

We’ll be going to Tavira, which we visited many, many years ago – so many, in fact that we think it may have been during our tent-camping years. We’d come across Tavira while wandering along the southern Spanish coast and over the border into Portugal. We’d thought it a refreshingly unspoilt place for the Algarve, undeveloped and free of high-rise hotels. But for the life of us- we’re unable to recall where the campsite could have been!

Anyway- back to the flying part. We’re booked on to a budget airline- which shall remain nameless- but has a reputation for charging for every little thing- checked baggage, cabin luggage, meals, snacks, seat selection, Seat selection! If you should desire to sit with your travel companion, you must pay extra for the luxury. We determine that although we must check in one case [between us, due to medication], we can manage the two hour flight without sitting together.

We’re flying from our local airport, which most friends and family seem to consider an advantage. The local airport also charges for everything, so the taxi cost is significantly increased by the ‘drop-off’ charge. Drop-off charge!

Inside Arrivals, the situation is mayhem, with long strings of queues stretching in every direction. There is no indication as to which queue is waiting for which desk, since nothing is labelled. The system appears to consist of one large woman walking around and shouting intermittently at us, the would-be passengers. We join a queue, with no clue as to whether it’s for us. Nothing is happening and nothing moves. The large woman walks past, shouting destinations. I leave the queue to question her, returning with the news that we are in the wrong queue, a fact that Husband does not wish to acknowledge. I join the correct queue, taking the suitcase with me.

After aeons, we get to the bag drop desk, where the conveyor belt isn’t working and everyone must trek round to the ‘outsize luggage’ place. Then it’s the joys of security- which we do actually have the hang of these days! Husband must avoid the gate scanner at all costs and I’m sent back to be scanned by hand.

We repack and go to departures, expecting a relaxing wait with a drink and a snack. We’re met with a seething mass of humanity, crammed into the one bar/cafe. Husband queues for drinks while I peruse the aisles in the one or two shops, which yield very little in the way of lunch or a snack at all.

There’s nowhere to sit- until a kindly couple invite us to share their table. They’ve waited all day for their delayed flight and still have a few hours to go…

Later, we’re invited to go to the gate. Once again, it’s guesswork which queue to join. But we do get on to a plane. I’m sandwiched between a very large Portuguese lady and a neurotic ex-pat lady who speaks Portuguese, then treated to their conversation, which is conducted across me. For the remainder of the flight, the neurotic ex-pat harangues me about her ailing business in Portugal [quad bikes] and the difficulties of her family.

When I go to use the WC I pass Husband, who is merrily chomping on Pringles and swigging red wine. Ho hum…

For fiction by me, Jane Deans, search for novels: The Conways at Earthsend [an eco-thriller] and The Year of Familiar Strangers [mystery drama]. Visit my website: janedeans.com

An Island Day

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Islands can be magical. We’re lucky enough to live close enough to an island to be able to make a day trip. In order to do this we must make one of the most expensive crossings of water, in terms of distance- probably only topped by Italy’s Capri [unless you, clever reader, know better!].

To get from our house to the Isle of Wight we need only to stroll the 3 minutes to our local railway station, take a train to Brockenhurst in the New Forest, change on to a tiny, two stop train to Lymington and get a ticket for the ferry, which makes regular departures to the island. the short train merely shuttles between Lymington Pier and Brockenhurst, back and forth. In the past we’ve gone by bike and stayed overnight but not on this occasion-

The Isle of Wight has a special character of its own, in that it is quaint and olde worlde- a throwback to the 50s in many ways. At this time of year there’s a steady flow of visitors so the boat is busy. Our nearest point is Yarmouth, where the ferry deposits us, having meandered its way over the short stretch of water following the line of buoys to avoid grounding. The channel between the mainland and the island is certainly hsort enough for a road bridge, but so far it’s unbreached, The miniscule town/village of Yarmouth is crazily busy with tourists, the island being a magnet for holiday makers, with many attractions, theme parks, walks, cycle paths and so on. It’s also a yachty heaven with boatyards, marinas, regattas, chandleries and all things for sailors.

But we’re here just for the day, so lunch and a stroll will certainly do. With a strong desire for fish and chips we try a few places, including one mysterious restaurant which ‘cooks on stones’. We’ve sat down before we realise it isn’t what we want, then make our excuses and leave, heading instead for the cavernous, quayside pub, which does indeed offer fish and chips- and beer!

After lunch we amble off up the road, following the coast, past reed beds, along the beach, up into the woods until we reach Victoria Fort, which has been tourist-ified with a reptile house, cafe and tiny shops. We continue on, over a stretch of grass housing barbecue grills. much in use today and on through some more woods, where views of the sea through the trees are lovely. The woods are full of enormous hearts tongue ferns.

We’re aware that time to the next, return ferry is ticking and we turn back, stopping at the fort to climb up on to the roof and take in the vistas, then back to picturesque Yarmouth, where the ferry is just leaving the quayside- so there’s time for a cup of tea before the next one; just the thing for a follow-up to fish and chips!

I’m a big fan of public transport and I’m always sad when a journey comes to an end, so I feel reluctant to disembark, then reluctant again to leave the train, but we’ll definitely be going again!

For fiction by me, Jane Deans, search for novels: The Conways at Earthsend [an eco-thriller] and The Year of Familiar Strangers [mystery drama]. Visit my website: janedeans.com

Erquy and the Elusive Oysters

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With just a couple of days left of our latest French trip, we head up to the coast to be in spitting distance of the return ferry. This time we’ve broken with tradition and opted to return from Cherbourg instaed of Caen.

A town called Erquy looks promising and a campsite overlooking the beach. We leave poor Machecoul and the hopeful ducks, who place themselves stolidly behind the van so that I have to make stern and noisy gestures before we can reverse out of the space.

On arrival to Erquy we become confused, as does the SATNAV, trying several lanes and being instructed be various trying-to-help passers-by. Erquy appears to be spread over a vast area. At last we locate the track down to the site- and it’s steep. We check in and are given a pitch number, 61, although when we find it on this huge site, it’s steeper than any chocks can deal with. As there seem to be plenty of empty spaces, we walk back to reception, where the two young women look mystified by the problem. It’s now I realise that the pitch number is not 61, but 19. Problem solved.

We park up and put chairs in the sun and there’s a view over the rocky shore and ‘Petit Saint Michel’- a tiny island that replicates Mont St Michel and has a miniature chapel perched on top.

But we are dismayed by the distance to Erquy port, where we’d assumed there’d be bars and restaurants, fertile hunting ground, perhaps, for the elusive oysters we’re after. A quick look online shows there’s ONE cafe/bar in striking distance, so we wander along the road outside the site to take a look and yes- past the end of the campsite and around the corner is a small bistro with an outside terrace and a conservatory. Phew! We sit in the sun with beers- there is a narrow view of the shore, then we book a table for later.

At last- there are oysters- and a big plate of crevettes for Husband.

Next day we set off on the coast path, which dips, climbs, crosses roads, goes through a strange housing estate where there’s nobody to be seen, through woods and to some stunning beaches with barely a soul on them.

Eventually we arrive on the outskirts of Erquy the town and port- although it’s still quite a hike- and a steep descent down to the port, although when we get there it’s pleasant but not stunning. We treat ourselves to an ice cream as a reward for trekking so far and to reinforce ourselves for the steep climb back out of town. But it feels like an achievement.

We leave Erquy and travel on to an aire overlooking the sea in striking distance of Cherbourg, where we’ve stayed before. It’s another achievement to have managed the entire trip without electric hook-up. Now- home to get it fixed!

For fiction by me, Jane Deans, search for novels: The Conways at Earthsend [an eco-thriller] and The Year of Familiar Strangers [mystery drama]. Visit my website: janedeans.com

A Place of no Interest

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Machecoul. This is the place we’ve selected to break our journey back northwards, towards home, We’re not in a rush, so can have two or three nights and see the town.

The weather is changing from heatwave into unsettled now, as it is at home, although to begin with it’s still sunny- just not so hot.

The first thing we notice as we approach Machecoul is the giant church. It’s often the case that French churches are huge buildings, dwarfing everthing around them. This one has two imposing twin spires. We turn off into the abrupt entrance to the site, which is municipal and lies on the edge of the town. It’s all perfectly laid out and tidy, next to the river and a canoe centre which is busy on this late Friday afternoon, rumbustious activities with groups of children.

We’ve barely checked in and parked up before a pair of mallards home in on us- quack! quick! New source of food arrived! They positively race towards us as we reverse into the space. Once I’ve unearthed the remai ns of a baguette and shredded it for them, they settle down on the grass next to us. The female- as usual- is much bolder than her partner and after some coaxing gobbles the bread from my hand. The male hangs back but gets cross and attacks her over stray crumbs.

Later, we walk across the bridge and into the small town, where it soon becomes clear that the church is the main/only item of interest. Otherwise there are a couple of streets of shops [and ex-shops], one or two bars and a covered marketplace. There’s also a tourist information office, although it’s mystifying what tourists should do here. There is supposed to be a chateau, but there’s no obvious sign of it- certainly no pointers to its whereabouts.

There’s a PMU bar- always to be relied on, although it doesn’t sell food. It’s busy. Next door is a restaurant, which seems to be the only one operating. It could also get very busy!

Later on we decide to give the restaurant a go. There’s a small table for two by the window. The food is very good- which is a relief!

In the morning, having got bread for lunch, I pop into the [now open] tourist information for a map of the local area, where a lone young woman has been tasked with holding the fort and discover that the chateau is actually opposite our camp site, behind some hefty, locked gates. Who knew? She plies me with a brochure. IT seems, however that the chateau is, in fact a ruin and also cannot be visited! This town seems determined not to attract tourists if it can help it!

The local map suggests walking and cycling routes, so in the afternoon we decide to try the walking route, making our way to the start point and following along a nondescript street by a small ‘canal’- one waterway that would not accomodate anything resembling a barge.

The route is mystifying- sending us, basically, around a housing estate. After an hour or so of trekking along suburban streets past house after house we’ve seen nothing of interest and give up. On the way back we do pass the ‘chateau’, catching a glimpse of the ruins through the thick hedge of trees.

We’ve one final day here and need to run the van out to charge the batteries, so we revisit a coastal fishing hamlet we cycled to years ago. It’s wild and unspoilt, with long rows of fishing huts and just one canalside bar and restaurant. Further on we stop in a deserted car park and make tea. We’ll be off north again tomorrow…

For fiction by me, Jane Deans, search for novels: The Conways at Earthsend [an eco-thriller] and The Year of Familiar Strangers [mystery drama]. Visit my website: janedeans.com

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Weekends Only

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In Port des Barques, the sun continues to shed blistering rays. In our pitch, staying in the shade, Husband returns to the task of repairing the punctures on my bike by inflating the brand new inner tubes we bought while staying at Saint Michel Chef Chef. A fellow French camper offers help [yet again!]. But the repair is not to be, due to the tubes being of the wrong sort [of course!]. In other words, they don’t fit.

In spite of the heat, we walk together up to the little village to research somewhere for an evening meal and to buy bread and [hopefully] pastries. We draw a blank on both counts, All likely-looking cafes inform us that they don’t do evening meals, except on Fridays and Saturdays. It seems that Port des Barques is simply a weekenders type of place. That’s that then. In addition to this, all the bakery signs lead to closures and the grocery shop has no bread and no pastries.

We venture further into the village and away from the sea, where we do find a co-op! We can get a baguette- but no croissants. Further still, we do actually stumble on a boulangerie! Eureka!

Returning back down the road, we make one last attempt to find an evening meal by looking in on a roadside hotel, where we are firmly told ‘Non!’

Later we pack up the van and set off to Rochefort, which is nearby, to visit the Orange telecoms store because the mobile wifi SIM has run out of data, also to visit Decathlon for yet more inner tubes and to bump up the van’s leisure batteries.

Rochefort is beautiful but we’ve done the sightseeing on a previous visit- when I’d erroneously thought it would be a magnet for cheese lovers until I realised that the iconic, blue cheese hails from Roquefort… Today is too hot to trek around the city so we locate the Orange shop, where the assistant takes some persuading to ‘recharge’ the SIM for us, reluctant to accept my poor French as a reason for my failings as a customer- but eventually he complies.

Decathlon is straightforward. This time we’ve brought the wheel and the inner tube is inserted for us [for a price].

Back on site, we wait until the relative cool of early evening to get a stroll up and along the seafront. Beyond the rocky section there’s a slipway and further round, a beach, busy at 7pm, and a cafe under the trees is doing a swift trade. Continuing on, there’s a couple of ancient canon on the clifftop overlooking the fishing huts but not much else. From here we can see the Isle d’Oleron, where we’ve stayed before. All of the islands off the west coast of France are lovely and all quite different in character.

It’s our last night at Port des Barques. In the morning I wake and notice that the laundry door is closed so I dash over and open it to allow the parent swallows to get in and feed the chicks. I glance up and see their tiny heads bobbing up and down- phew! They are still alive…

For fiction by me, Jane Deans, search for novels: The Conways at Earthsend [an eco-thriller] and The Year of Familiar Strangers [mystery drama]. Visit my website: janedeans.com

Parched in des Barques

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Husband has looked through our ACSI book and found us a site thatis new to us, although we know the area well. The weather has continued to warm up as we travel and is edging into hot, rather than warm.

We cross the Charente at La Roche sur Yon, turn on to smaller roads then head for a small peninsula, driving through some villages until we reach the seaside village of Port des Barques. There’s not a lot to the village, although clearly there’s a big focus on shellfish, judging by the stalls lining the seafront car park. Opposite there’s a row of buildings with maybe two or three bars- that’s about it!

We’ll investigate the bars and places to eat later or tomorrow, but we must go on down through the village and to the other side to get to the site.

The site, ‘La Garenne’, [the warren], is vast. Besides being in the ACSI book it’s also a municipal camp site. These are often good value, ‘no frills’ type sites with good services. La Garenne has been kept tidy but not manicured or planted up. The pitches are huge, most with a combination of sun and shade, which suits us nicely as we need sun for solar power and shade for ourselves. We check in and choose a place on a corner near reception, with a big, dense tree on one side and open on the other. Perfect!

The sea is just across the road, although the beach is rocky rather than sandy. Once we’ve set up [which takes all of 5 minutes including pulling out the awning] we take to the shade. Opposite our pitch there is a mobile kiosk and a fenced off area furnished with tables and chairs- all in the shade of the trees. There is also a menu board. It all looks very promising. We chug down some cold beers. Husband asks, “Do we want to cook anything tonight?” It’s hot and we’ve travelled all day and I don’t need asking twice.

At this pop-up restaurant the menu is simple but perfect for a hot evening. There are also more cold beers! I’m in awe of the two women running it, since there’s a steady flow of diners requiring all sorts of things including ice creams and they are on the go constantly in the draining heat, one taking orders and serving and the other cooking. Cooking!

After eating we sit outside long after dark as it’s far too hot to go in. Up among the branches of the dense conifer on our pitch, huge buzzing insects lurch in and out. After much deliberation I decide they must be cicadas, their wings providing the loud buzz as they blunder around. There are also swallows nesting in the laundry, tiny chicks peering out waiting to be fed.

At around midnight we retire to the interior of the van, where in spite of opening all skylights and windows, blacking out the windscreen with our reflective sheet and using nothing but a sheet, the night passes in a restless, sticky drag of wakefulness. The morning dawns just as hot. We’ve just read that Dr Michael Mosely, media health guru, has died while hiking in the heat of a Greek afternoon. Nevertheless, someone has to trek up to the village for bread. Hmmm…

For fiction by me, Jane Deans, search for novels: The Conways at Earthsend [an eco-thriller] and The Year of Familiar Strangers [mystery drama]. Visit my website: janedeans.com

Friendly French!

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Once we’re en route again and heading south, the weather gets better and better. We’d been in a quandary over what we should do, since the electrics have failed again, as they did on our ill-fated Spanish jaunt earlier in the year. They’re supposed to have been repaired…this can only be resolved once we’ve returned home. But should we go north or south? The forecast decides for us- we’ll get more sun and hence more solar power from heading south, so we opt to press on.

It’s a longish haul down the coast and towards La Rochelle. We’ve been down this way countless times now, but we’re headed to an unfamiliar town and site. It’s at Tharron Plage, a satellite of the oddly named ‘St Michel Chef Chef’. The site is ‘Le Vieux Chateau’, although when we arrive it’s hard to see why. Across the road there’s a cylindrical, ochre coloured tower and a long wall; not overly chateau-like, but still…

The site is small and almost entirely occupied by French holiday makers. It becomes clear very soon after we arrive that this is one of the most friendly and welcoming places we’ve stayed- the usually reserved French greeting us and chatting each time they pass.

By now it has become very warm. We have a wander down the road to the seafront and along to the tiny seaside at Tharron Plage and it’s very basic and undeveloped- which is lovely. Along the shoreline, fishing huts on stilts are dotted. There’s a stretch of sand and a few streets with bars, ice cream parlours and cafes but little else, except that the ‘Velodysee’ cycle track runs right along the front. This means that we can get the bikes down off the van and have a go.

It’s a long time since I cycled and some unpleasant physical interventions have taken place since I was in the saddle- but I’m keen to have a go, especially as there’s a ready-made, tarmac, off-road cycle path to use! But sadly, when the bikes are lifted down, my lovely, trusty, Specialized has a major puncture, which Husband sets about mending the following morning, removing the inner tube and submerging it to find the hole. Somehow, though, it proves impossible, since when we think we’ve patched it, it still deflates. Husband spends a lot of time on it- to no avail. A friendly French neighbour tries to help out, too, but all to no avail.

We research and find a bike shop in St Michel Chef Chef. Although it’s Sunday and will be closed we decide to walk and find it- which we do- and yes- it’s closed along with everything else.

In a further twist- Husband’s bike, the Charge Cooker seizes up in an act of rebellion against the heat- which it has done before- so neither bike is rideable. Ho hum.

On Monday it’s still hot, but Husband nobly sets off on foot to get some bread for lunch as there’s none available on site today, meanwhile the friendly Frenchman tells me that everywhere, including the boulangeries, is shut. Husband returns empty handed but with news of a tiny Pizzeria that is open and serving lunches. In the evening we go to a cheerful corner cafe where I get moules and frites and watch as a tiny girl outside at a table tucks into the same thing with gusto!

Then we’re off once more- a little further south as the weather turns ever hotter…

For fiction by me, Jane Deans, search for novels: The Conways at Earthsend [an eco-thriller] and The Year of Familiar Strangers [mystery drama]. Visit my website: janedeans.com

Unholy Trinite

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A British woman in the pitch next door to ours drones on and on, a constant monologue, a commentary to her husband about her activities: ‘I’m putting this in here’, ‘I’m going to take these in’, the pegs are under there’, ‘you’ll need to wash that’. Later, once they’ve cooked their evening meal on a grill- accompanied by the commentary- she launches into a new monologue about rose wine- how the deeper the colour, the sweeter it is, or something. She intersperses each comment with ‘but I don’t know anything about wine’ or ‘I know bugger all about wine’.

When I meet her at our shared water tap she treats me to a story about her new, grey top and how the wind blew their washing rack on to their teapot, which in turn tipped over on to it and she doesn’t know how she’ll get it dry.

Next morning they’re engaged in the commentary-laden project of moving their caravan into a new position- a task that seems to require emptying it entirely and using their car to manoevre it round. This is apparently [or so I can’t help hearing] due to their lack of shade. So when a member of staff comes along to tell us we must either leave or move because we only booked three nights it’s not too much of a catastrophe- except that I feel incensed that there’s no acknowledgement that we did, in fact, reserve for four nights.

We’ve been here, at La Trinite sur Mer, for a couple of days. For our first day, which was a little overcast and breezy, we walked around the town then, on a whim, took the ‘Noddy’ train trip out to the Standing Stones at next door Carnac- which are an amazing, vast, neolithic site, although we’ve been before. The little train is relaxing and there’s information on the headphones, of course. Back in town we get a coffee, served by [yet another, for those following this blog] ill-tempered woman. Not all the bars and cafes along the prom are open.

Yesterday we took the van out [partly in the interests of battery charging] and looked at a few places- some beautiful wild dunes by a deserted beach where we lunched, Port Louis, which hadn’t yielded a coffee shop. The weahter was hot, sultry and sticky, making walking and sightseeing hard work. Then thunderstorms moved in, the rain so heavy we needed to pull in and stop to wait it out.

When I wake on the third morning there’s sune pouring in and a fresher feel. We can sit outside, have coffee in the sunshine, read a book. In the afternoon we walk down a cute footpath outside the entrance to the site and up around the headland, the coast rock-strewn and rugged, then it turns along the beside small beaches and back towards the town.

We’re off again next day, heading south towards an area we’ve visited several times- around Pornic. To get there we must cross the stunning bridge at Saint Nazaire which crosses the Loire at its estuary- then we’re over and heading on in blue skies and sunshine…

For fiction by me, Jane Deans, search for novels: The Conways at Earthsend [an eco-thriller] and The Year of Familiar Strangers [mystery drama]. Visit my website: janedeans.com